Taos Powder 
Monday, February 2, 2015, 08:49 PM - Weekend Fun
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Mike and I drove up to Taos early on Saturday in the tail end of a Southwest blizzard. We found Leigh and Justin, Mark and Sam, Angela and Nick, Briana, Steve, and lots of friends out enjoying the 9" of powder. I had just replaced my Fritschi assembly on the Katanas after the toe piece break, but managed to forget to adjust them to the sole length or set the DINs. It was a little junkshow in the lift line while I hobbled around on one ski and tried to make adjustments with Mike's tiny pozidriver. In the end, I had to stop off at the patrol building and get things setup right. Then on the 2nd turn in Billy Sol I clipped a submerged tree, lost my ski, and had to spend a full 25-30 minutes looking for it in the powder until someone spotted it below me. What a powder day cluster! After meeting back up with folks, things improved and it was smooth sailing for the rest of the day. We got some good skiing in Werner's Right (tough), Juarez, and Lorelei Trees.




When I got finished with my last run of the day, I saw Steve hanging around the base. He agreed to let us crash at his house in exchange for dinner supplies. We cooked up a great fajita dinner with a salad + spiralized cucumber and carrots. (I'm embarassed by how much I love that spiralizer.) The great thing about Steve's place is that it also comes with a hot tub and home brew!

The following day, Mike and I skied with Briana all day. Taos opened the West Basin for the first time so we hit St. B's, Zdarsky, Stauffy Trib, and Waterfowl, which was chock full of rocks. Where the snow was good, it was great, but there was still plenty of dodging to do in the Basin, Pierre's, Reforma, Longhorn, Lorelei, Al's, etc. After 5 hikes, we celebrated the sunny day with a beer at the Bav and then pointed the Outback south again.




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The 22 Hour Saturday 
Sunday, January 25, 2015, 04:25 PM - AMRC
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Up at 4:45am, I loaded up the ski racing equipment, picked up Kaela, and headed to Angel Fire for my first race of the season. I ran a very conservative line for my first and ended up missing the 2nd run by a minute or two because Kaela and I took a long run down the ridge and they closed the course just before I got there. Bummer. I ran the gates without timing for fun and pushed much harder - felt like I shaved a good 0.5-1.0 seconds on my first run's time. Now I'm going to have to smoke Santa Fe to make up for my poor performance.

Kaela and I played on the backside in the afternoon. We hiked up and did a nice run on Detonator which still had powder on the fringes.

(Angel Fire's world class mountain biking trails with a few feet of snow.)


On our way back we stopped off at Kevin and Mary Kay's place to have dinner. Max and Felix were entertaining the crowd and we were having a wonderful time catching up, when an AMRC text came in. I didn't have any gear, but Kevin said he could wrestle up a headlamp and some crampons for me. We sped up the crest and were fielded as Team 2 by BCFD. We rushed down La Luz and plowed through waist deep shortcut powder to catch Andreas and Jeff in Team 1. BCFD sent in 4 of their people ahead of us; they found the patients just below on the trail near the Fin. The male and female, around 20, tried to get up La Luz but started postholing and soaked their shoes--then night came. The female had taken off her sopping socks and discarded them.

Kevin boiled up some miso soup and tea while I tended to foot treatment: I dried her feet and ankles, put on some dry socks, and then created a vapor barrier with trash bags before putting her feet back in the frosty tennis shoes. While there was some debate whether she could get to the top with painful arthritis in her right hip, she did eventually make it out under her own power (after 3 hours). Ironically, the firefighters took the longest. We gave them a spare set of snowshoes for the crampon gripper, but it was still a slow process. I tried to help by kicking a lot of the ice off the stairs and packed the snowy path down to the top.

Kaela had taken the car back to my house, so I got a ride with Andreas. All the doors were locked, so we banged on the bedroom window and eventually Kaela obliged to shelter me for the night. After a celebratory beer with Andreas, I crashed hard sometime after 2:30am.
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AMRC Winter Training - Pagosa Spings 
Wednesday, January 21, 2015, 10:00 PM - Weekend Fun
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Kevin and I drove up to Bill's cabin on Friday night. The winter training this year consisted of one day of ice/snow anchors and a full avalanche scenario.

Day 1 we skinned up a forest road below the pass, and then the technicians-to-be, skied down to a ice fall. We rapped in and practiced our Abalakov (horizontal V) threads and Anderson (vertical 'A') threads. Details. I will say the one takeaway I had was that a bent coat hanger is way better than manufactured v-thread pullers. We ascended the ropes, skinned up to the rest of the group, and found a nice snow fort. Kevin wanted to know what it would be like to be buried in an avalanche so we gave him a radio and avalung and I buried him in about 3 ft of snow. He said it was cold, dark, he couldn't move, and he only panicked for a little bit before breathing normally through the avalung. He recommended the trial experience, but not the real thing.

Day 2 we ran an avalanche scenario. I was the lead beacon search member and cleared the field of 3 in a respectable 10 minutes. Then I started to work on our patient with a femur fracture before Zak came to my rescue. Overall I did an alright assessment, initial treatment, and vitals check. I didn't get a pedal pulse because of the ski boot, but should have because that's an indication to NOT to pull traction. Good to know. I built the T-slot anchor with skis and pulled the patient up with a 1:1. But this doubles the load on the anchor so a 3:1 or "drop C" is better. As a treat for the training we got to ski powerline. I was paired up with Kevin and Paul and we found some amazing first tracks in a wonderful glade. We managed to get a little lost on the way down, but found a road and got out eventually.











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Ski Kayaking at Sipapu 
Wednesday, January 14, 2015, 09:52 PM - Weekend Fun
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I went up to Sipapu (first time there!) to ski kayak with Kelley, Mike, Amanda, and my wonderful girlfriend, Kaela. Kaela was volunteering for Kayak New Mexico's Adaptive Paddling Programs so she showed us the ropes: grab a kayak, head up the magic carpet, and toboggan to the bottom. Basically glorified sledding with walls, but still worth trying once in your life.







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Ouray Ice and Silverton Snow 
Tuesday, January 6, 2015, 10:14 PM - Weekend Fun
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For New Years, Kaela, Kelley, Cam, James, Brit, and Ryan got a place in Ouray. It was a nice enough place a mile north of town, where we could cook and party. 4 of the crew were flying in from Belize/Mexico the day before, so they were mostly cooked on travel, for Kaela, Kelley, and I did our best to make up for it.

New Years Day, Kaela and I went to the ice park and did an easier line in New Funtier. Kelley joined us in the afternoon for another quick climb nearby. She did fairly well for her first time with tools. Kaela also was getting the hang of things by the end of the day - and certainly looking good at it!




The next couple days, I skied Silverton. Josiah, Bri, Kaela, Justin, Leigh, Angela, Bill, Chris, Harmony, Jen, Kirk, James, Cam, and perhaps a few others were on the mountain - their record turnout (400+ people) which made the lines tough in the -10 F morning! K, Cam, and I did a hike to the Ramp for our first run, and then met up with others to explore more of the mountain. We found a nice power stash on the backside near riff raff but I caught something and junkshowed my skis everywhere. It was this, or the rough transition to the road that broke my toepiece on the Katanas. So sad!! But at least they had beer at the base and we went to Corvis Hot Springs that evening to recover. Warm water in the frozen, moonlit mountains can't be beat.

The following day I borrowed Justin's spare skis. It was my first time on Dinafits, but they did the trick and stayed on my feet. Cam did a couple runs with me - he's a phenomenal skier, so I hope he can teach me a thing or two in Taosland sometime. We did Colorado with the Josiah/Bri crowd and then more backside exploration of Mandatory Air and a Riff chute. Back at the house, after a harrowing blizzard drive, I cooked up venison stir-fry and baked pretzels for the crew. before we all went to Ouray Hot Springs for a soak.






Our final day in Ouray, Kaela and I walked around town and got treats at Mouse's. The town is so beautiful. Hopefully they're ready for the ice fest the next weekend!


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Christmas in WashMo, STL, and So IL 
Tuesday, January 6, 2015, 10:09 PM - Trips
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I spent a week in the midwest with the family at Christmas time. I bought dad a road bike in ABQ for xmas, so it was a little bit of a give away when he came to pick me up, but Mom and I jokingly played it off like I had brought a bunch of dirty laundry back home to be washed. The other challenge was getting the bike box in the Prius, which required my mom to cram in the back seat half on top of the bike.

We sent to Washington, MO first and re convened the family for a nice lunch and dinner. The following day we went back to St. Louis for Christmas on my Mom's side. I managed to fix my uncle's beloved bubbles game by replacing some fuses (first time it's worked in 6 years). I think that was the best gift he's ever received for christmas in two decades :) In the morning, we did gifts with Jack, Rachel, and Jeremy Skyping on my iPad from New Orleans. Worked remarkably well.

After that we headed back to Washington to do Christmas on my Dad's side. Party of the festivities were to build Grandma (and Jolie the dog) a fenced in yard. The following day Rebecca drove down from STL to visit with me. WE reminisced about the good old days in Boulder with the NREL crew. After that came the photo day - Anne Elise and I managed to win the scavenger hunt by hitting the local thrift shop. The theme for this year was 'selfie', which I proudly won with the shot of me with ice frozen to my beard and hair. Anne Elise won 'best of year' with a shot of a lake in Guatemala.




For the last couple days of the trip, I went to my childhood home in southern Illinois. The family made the 26th annual hike (bushwhack) to Bald Knob Cross. I've done the hike every winter since I was 5 years old - so it was good to keep the tradition alive. Dad and Mom's HS friend and family from Manhattan stayed the next night and it was fun to see them catching up on the last 25 years. On my way out of town, the Johnsons, Pepples, and other Johnsons gathered in STL for a final brunch. It was nice to see Cara again - she seems to be happy and busy with work in Oakland. I'm sure I'll be out that way to see her again soon.






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Silverton with Briana 
Saturday, December 20, 2014, 09:54 PM - Weekend Fun
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Briana and I went up to Silverton for the first unguided weekend on our passes. There had not been much snow on the year, but the prospect of getting fresh snow was enough for us to be stoked. I stayed in the Blair Street Hostel while Briana toughed it out in her van. We started by skiing Cabin and I straight away skied off a couple foot avalanche crown that I couldn't see in the low light. That got my attention, but I still managed to find about as much powder as I did rocks and trees for the first day - lost lots of base, skis, and pride that day. We did Rope Dee Dope #4 for our 2nd run, which required a 3+ ft cornice drop to enter the 40 degree ice chute. I think I did two turns all the way down before exiting to a great powder bowl which made the hike worth it. At lunch we met up with Justin and Leigh and skied a couple runs in the Dolores trees (great!). The final run down Sunset to the Maze ended poorly when I crashed and jabbed my ski pole tip into my thigh. I knew this was a distinct possibility: I was bleeding and bruised at the end of my first Silverton day.

On Sunday, Bri and I linked up with Leigh, Justin, and Marc for a backcountry trip. We went up Country Road 52 to what I think is called King Solomon. It a a tough slog with a lot of downed trees, and then snowpack in the bowl was too unstable and we had to ski low angle trees back out to the road :(






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Backcountry Ski Climbing/Skiing - Stairway to Heaven 
Sunday, December 14, 2014, 09:41 PM - Weekend Fun
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Kaela and I join a big group of AMRC folks for a weekend of fun up in Ouray. Zak, Andy, Lance, Frank, Leigh, and Justin climbed on Saturday in a couple groups. Our group attempted Stairway to Heaven (Stairway to Eleven) in Silverton. At WI4, I wasn't super excited to lead, but sucked it up and hyperventilated through the first couple pitches. We didn't end up going past that due to time, but as Kaela's first ice climbing outing she did great(!), even if she freaked out a little when her crampon fell off half way up the first pitch.









Sunday, we did a fun backcountry line called Sam's Trees close to Silverton. Kaela tried out splitboarding for the first time and did just fine on the climb. Going down the big board and thick powder got the better of her, but she ended the day with a big smile and I couldn't have been more proud :)






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Red River Ski Race Camp 
Friday, December 5, 2014, 09:31 PM - Weekend Fun
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The tradition of Jason and I heading up to Red River to train gates with the UNM ski team continues! We did the Friday and Saturday training with the GS and Slalom team - a couple of whom (Ponda and Mark) are also on my Lovelace soccer team. We had the Sandia dinner on Friday with Evan, Saturday banquet, and shared in the merriment of watching the U.S. women sweep the World Cup downhill ski race in Lake Louise, Alberta, Saturday, Dec. 6.


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A-basin Thanksgiving 
Sunday, November 23, 2014, 09:16 PM - Trips
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Briana, Josiah, and Dave drove up to Taos in Briana's new 1996 Aerostar van. We stopped off for a day of skiing in Taos (opening day!), but only the frontside groomers were open *yawn*. We drove to Frisco that Thanksgiving night, and after a slight 1 hour detour finally arrived at Frisco. We had to beg the cook at the only last open restaurant in town to serve us past 9pm. But it worked out and we had a very nice Italian dinner without a single scrap of Turkey to be found.

The next couple days, we skied Arapahoe Basin with Jen, Kirk, Chris and Harmony. (Bonnie did show up for the last day as well.) The steeps and back bowls weren't open, but they allowed a few mid-day hikes to powder stashes. Briana, Josiah, and I were blown away by a nice tree run that hadn't seen anyone else yet. The skiing was good to get the feeling back in my legs for the season and the Frisco food was exquisite: we had wonderful Tibetan and Bavarian dinners the following evenings. Plus the local bar had air hockey and I like air hockey.





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Japan  
Saturday, November 15, 2014, 10:01 PM - Trips
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Spent a couple days in Koriyama and a week in Kyoto as part of the IRED conference.

Photos are here.





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Moab Canyons with Kaela 
Friday, November 7, 2014, 08:37 PM - Weekend Fun
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Kaela and I drove up to Moab and met a large crew including Mike and Allison, Josiah and Leah, UT folks like Sarah, and camped on the Colorado River at the Porcupine Rim Trail intersection. Our first evening, we did a quick mountain bike loop out to Gemini Bridges via Bull Run/Magnificent Seven.



After a good Friday pre-party, Kaela and I struck out to find some canyoneering adventures. We did Not Tierdrop and ate lunch up by Balanced Rock. We gave up on doing another in Arches in hopes of ticking off Medieval Canyon with M&A, but their Marathon effort ran late. Instead, we mountain biked up Porcupine a couple miles and descended into to sunset. The riding was very challenging (plenty of walking) but I was surprised at how much was ride-able. I was also very impressed with Kaela for sticking out this ride because it was mostly a sufferfest for her.





The following day, Mike, Allison, Kaela, and myself went all the way out to Lost and Found Canyon. We did the Lost Spring Exit variation by shuttling a car around and it took the full day. (We'll have to head back to this area to do MMI canyon as well next year.) The canyon was SUPER fun. The first rappel was a neat drop through an arch formation, then the walls shrunk to a spectacular slot canyon. The next rap was 76 ft and a bit awkward, so Allison required a little coaching to get her through the notch. The only downside of this route was a nasty rap off a wedged log that got Allison stuck, caused Kaela to take a little swing to the ground, and banged up my shin on the transition. If it wasn't for this spot the canyon would have received 5/5 stars from me. Lastly, a massive 132 ft rappel from an Indiana Jones-style ledge took us to the canyon floor where we made the long walk out. Then we drove back to Mike's parent's place in Durango via a 4WD road to the CO River.







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Moab - Oct 2014 
Monday, October 27, 2014, 08:28 PM - Weekend Fun
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I caught a ride up to Moab on Friday with Tim and Sharon. We headed directly to the slickrock trail where I gave Tim a few pointers on the practice loop. Then I struck out into the trail proper just before sunset and had a drink at sunset. Challenging riding as always but I was feeling strong and I only supermanned once into a sandpit.



That evening the crew rolled into a great campspot: group site C at big bend. We started on the Genepy by the fire and we watched the milky way come out.



Leaving Leigh's parents back in camp, Justin, Leigh, Arthur, Ian, Tim, Sharon, Eliza, Mark, and I went out to Rock of Ages Canyon. We hiked up into a cool area on the south side of the CO and then rappelled 170' down by Pool Arch. Wading through the pools down to a couple more rappels, everyone was in high spirits. It's always great to have Justin around to make sure everyone's being safe. Canyoneering is really fun.




The following day people split up to do their own thing, but I talked Tim and Sharon to drop me off at the top of Porcupine. I mountain biked the 14.4 miles quick and confident, but it was the most challenging riding I've ever done. The "jackhammer" riding is super challenging and rattled my wrists to death. The payoff was a beautiful singletrack trail around the south rim of the CO river (crazy exposure!) back down to the road. I met an ER doc who refused help but said that he thinks he broke both of his wrists endo'ing on the final stretch. He was in rough shape but refused any help - gotta love MTBer bravado.








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30th Birthday 
Saturday, October 11, 2014, 10:42 PM - Weekend Fun
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My parents and brother came to ABQ for my 30th birthday. We took a bike ride out to see the balloon fiesta and did some other small trips around town. I was spending a lot of time trying to figure out all the "clues" - my Mom asked a bunch of my friends to send me riddles and puzzles to unlock a code. Here's the full synopses.







My party was reasonably well attended and I got to see a few friends I hadn't seen in years. There was a huge cake, a bonfire, dancing, and New Mexican food. The beer came via tandem bicycle, which made it taste that much better!






I also tallied up my 30-before-30 list that I put together when I turned 29:
1. Ski Mt. Rainier. Half credit since the intent was to ski off the summit. Mike and I turned back at Ingraham Flats when the avalanche danger seemed too high.
2. Scuba dive a tropical reef. Full credit for doing a great drift dive in St. Vincent and the Grenadines.
3. Eat an amazing steak in Argentina. Full credit for the great ribeye in Mendoza.
4. Buy fat skis, shred pow, and huck a 10+ footer. Full credit. Got Volkl Katanas, played in powder, and dropped the Chair 4 cliff on a hardpack day.
5. Bike 3,000 miles with 50,000 ft of elevation gain. Half credit for logging 2648.3 mi and 116,531 ft on Strava. Not bad for an average of 50.9 mi/week!
6. Climb South Maroon Peak via the Bell Cord. No credit.
7. Mountain bike 20 miles at night. Full credit with Josiah, Briana, Mike, Allison, and Sam out at White Mesa.
8. Climb a high alpine route to a major summit (e.g., Ellingwood Ledges). No credit.
9. Take a train from Oslo to the Norwegian fjords. No credit.
10. Become a technician on Albuquerque Mountain Rescue. No credit.
11. Spend a week at burning man. No credit. Did get the option to buy tickets, but was double booked with a work trip. Next year!
12. Go hot air ballooning. Full credit for a great flight with Alejandro.
13. Ski every named run at Taos. No credit. This is extremely difficult! Still missing about 10 from the ticklist.
14. Mountaineer in the southern hemisphere. Half credit for the journey up Cerro Martin near Las Leñas. Not extreme enough for full credit.
15. Watch a U.S. soccer game at the world cup in Brazil. Full credit for the U.S. v Portugal game.
16. Eat curry in India without getting sick. Full credit for a week of spices in Bangalore.
17. Gamble in Vegas. Half credit for using a slot machine in the airport. Certainly not the full experience.
18. Heli-ski in South America. No heli but half credit for skiing Las Leñas.
19. Raft the Taos Box. Full credit. Chilly run with Jeff and Mike.
20. Attend an epic music festival (Tomorrowland?). No credit.
21. Ski Vallee Blanche from Aiguille du Midi in Chamonix. No credit – pushed to 2015.
22. Brew a tasty ale while drinking a tasty beer. Full credit. Thanks Kenny and Jack.
23. Canyoneer in Utah with a 100+ ft rappel. Full credit for a great Moab trip with Leigh, Justin, Mike, Tom, Mark, Sam, and Leana.
24. Create a video of time lapse photography. No credit. How did this not happen?
25. Party with a shot luge. Full credit.
26. Climb a multi-pitch ice or mixed route. No credit. Only top rope work in the ice park.
27. Get a ski race suit and take home NASTAR gold. Half credit. Borrowed a race suit but after 3 days in the race course I was still 0.13 seconds away from the gold. 0.13 seconds!
28. Chase animals around the African savanna. No credit.
29. Backpack in the Canadian Rockies, e.g., Banff. No credit.
30. Get a couple more house plants. Full cred.
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Amsterdam 
Wednesday, September 24, 2014, 10:21 PM - Trips
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I attended the European Photovoltaic Solar Energy Conference and Exhibition in Amsterdam to present some of my PV research. Overall it was good to meet up with my European counterparts and discuss the latest progress. I had been to Amsterdam back in 2006, but this time I was even more taken by the beauty of the city and all the bike use. The highlight for me was taking a boat ride with Henk, AIT, and Sandia people. We had about 1" clearance under the bridges so we had to walk the boat under many of them. We cruised the canals out past the main train station, and as night descended on the city, we stopped off at a local pub for food and a beer.








I stayed on an extra day to visit the laboratories of DNV GL in Arnhem. On the Saturday, Jack and I headed out to Naarden, an incredible fortified city. We got breakfast at the market where everyone was getting flowers, vegetables, cheese, etc. for the week. The small market was very peaceful and the country was looking spectacular because the rains had finally stopped. Jack and I rode our bikes the ~20 miles back into the city along a well-maintained set of trails. I'd love to go back at some point and explore them more thoroughly.








My research being presented in the Keynote Speech.


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Lake Powell Houseboat 
Saturday, September 6, 2014, 10:00 PM - Trips
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A large crew headed up to Lake Powell for 3 days on a houseboat. I wasn't a big part of the planning, but the trip went off without a hitch (aside from the time that I crashed the 53' boat into the refueling dock...)

On night one we got gear and people organized on the boat at Wahweap Marina. In the morning, we got our chart briefing and then headed for open water. The water level is clearly down about 80' from the high point and we had to use a dredged channel to get past Antelope "Island". We camped that night at a great spot around 37°6'42.11"N 111°12'22.85"W. Kaela, Laurel, and It was Jeff's Bday weekend, so we threw him a party and the ladies smeared him with cake.

On Saturday, we cruised out to Rainbow Bridge National Monument and did the short hike up to the arch. It was monstrous and the crew was in high spirits. That night we headed back toward home and found a great hidden beach at 37°6'29.98"N 111°14'11.71"W, where we built a fire on the hill and threw another party.

The last day we worked our way toward Wahweap, but managed to take a break on Antelope Island to setup a slip-n-slide and hold a flotilla party in the sun - I burned nicely from that.










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AMRC Training on the Shield 
Friday, September 5, 2014, 10:10 PM - Weekend Fun
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I wanted to create a fun and difficult training for the AMRC team, so I hatched a scenario involving the biggest cliff I could find: the Shield.

The Scenario: Two moderately experienced climbers (Justin and Jay) were planning on completing a 2-day ascent of Purple Haze. They had some difficulty finding and staying on the route, so the climbers could be located anywhere between Procrastination and Rainbow Dancer. On one of the last 3 pitches, Jay was belaying Justin up to their planned portaledge spot when his wig got caught in the grigri. While trying to free it, Justin continued seconding the route, but slack built. Justin yelled, "take!" but all this did was to startle a misplaced gray squirrel which jumped on Justin's face, causing him to fall 10 feet and injure his ankle. Jay managed (over the course of hours) to haul Justin and their gear up to the belay, set up the portaledge, and crack a couple beers in defeat. Admitting there was no way to finish the route without assistance, the two climbers eventually called their closest friend, Leeroy Jenkins, for swift, unsupported action. Unfortunately, Leeroy was in Canada at the time, jogging a traverse of the Vallée des Dix Pics, so by the time Leeroy could call his friends on AMRC, day was already breaking on the Shield...



Team Response We had excellent attendance. 26 people came out to the training, but it wasn't easy to execute. Due to Forest Service regulations, no more than 10 people can be gathered in the wilderness zone because this may hinder the wilderness experience of others. Therefore, we broke into 3 teams:

1. Recon Team. A hasty team (Cassy and Brad) which provided reconnaissance of the climbing party from below the Shield. They spotted the climbers from the La Luz parking lot and radio'ed the location of the subjects and other key pieces of information to the High Angle Team.

2. High Angle Team. The high angle rescue team made their way to the top of the Shield from the crest parking lot. Communication with the Recon Team helped indicate where to drop the first rescuers. Operations at the top with be run by our Rock Technician, Zak.

3. Low Angle Team. A small team was needed to get Justin up the rock steps of North Sandia Peak, so a few rescuers stayed back and set up a low angle raise for the injured patient.

Safety The training was in an extremely hazardous area and ultimately led to its cancellation. As the high angle team came off the top, loose scree was dropped off the edge - no real way to avoid this - so Justin and I traversed over to some trees to get out of the way. Unfortunately, despite my warnings on mountainproject, there were other climbers on the Shield due to the limited climbing season (mid-August to Feb when Peregrine Falcons aren't nesting). There was no way to run the training without triggering rockfall so the decision was made to cancel it.

My portion of the training: I went out to the Shield the night before with a crazy-heavy pack of ~75 lbs of gear. I rappelled into place, set an anchor, and built the portaledge. The evening was very calm and warm which was great because I needed a lot of time to configure the portaledge for the first time. I crawled into my sleeping bag, grazed up at the stars and 250ft of the top of the Shield, and passed out at about 10pm. At daybreak the following morning, I heard my fellow training partner, Justin, working with my rappel line from above. He came down, cooked up breakfast for me (Chai and beans&rice), and we started the process of packing up all the gear. Once the team arrived, found us, and figured out a plan of action, Hans came down to assess the injuries. At this point we got the information from the climbers below (who knew people on the team and called us) that the rockfall was continuing, so we had to cancel the training. We spent the next hours ascending back off the Shield and hauling the gear out. I struggled with my pack going up, had to switch to a 3:1 with grigri capture, and it took forever (more than an hour).

Overall disappointing we didn't get to do the training, but I learned a lot and no one was hurt. For those on Procrastination, we were right above them, so it's clear we couldn't do this training with people on the route.













Procrastination route and our rockfall path.
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Korea - Aug 2014 
Sunday, August 24, 2014, 09:01 PM - Trips
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I went back to Changwon to visit KERI as part of our 3 year collaborative research project on advanced inverters for the smart grid. Dr. Ahn was gracious as always to host me, and we continued our discussions about the similarities and differences between the US and Korea, desert and forests, rich and poor, etc.





After the visit, I headed to Seoul for the Energy Tech Insight meeting. The changing of the guard at Gyeongbokgung was great because they would beat this huge drum and it would echo around the entire palace. I could definitely imagine that happening a thousand years ago.







After my talk at COEX in Gangnam, I joined my other colleague for dinner in Myeong-dong and then we took the tram up to the Namsan tower. It was worth the trip since the views of Seoul were so incredible.





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Dro and Nicole Visit 
Tuesday, August 19, 2014, 08:49 PM - Weekend Fun
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Dro and Nicole came out to visit because of a conference in town. We caught the train up to Santa Fe, did a biking tour of downtown, and Dro and I took a great Hot Air Ballooning flight! It was super peaceful and quiet (except when the burners would kick on), and we got to do a splashdown in the Rio. It was everything I hoped it would be.

HDR Photos are here.







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August in Missouri 
Monday, August 18, 2014, 07:56 PM - Weekend Fun
Posted by Administrator
I spent the weekend back in St. Louis and Washington, MO with the family. Mom did a great job to pack the weekend with lots of adventures.

I landed on Friday and was whisked off to a nice dinner in outside of Redbud as a fundraiser for a kids outdoor education center that my cousin attended. Then Saturday we all headed down to my uncle's cabin on the Meramec River for a float, complete with rope swing and cliff jumping. We BBQed out by the river at Randy's place, and aside with some problems with my grandfather's fading health, had a very pleasant time exploring the country.









Later that night Anne Elise + Adrian, Steve, Josh, Dad, Mom, and I did the 51st Moonlight Ramble in St. Louis. It had over 5,000 cyclists (apparently down from 25,000 in 1989). We were toward the back of the pack, so it took a good 20 minutes to get rolling, but once we did it was a great ~20 mile cruise through downtown. It was crowded but the people/bike show was half the fun.




Sunday was Josh's birthday. I helped pick out a suit for him to try his job seeking luck in Austin, TX. Cake, presents, and a little car repair rounded out the weekend. Then it was off to airport. It was nice to be back in the Midwest in summer. It'd been at least 3 years since seeing all the green in IL/MO.
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